1 a :of or relating to large groups of people classed according to common racial, national, tribal, religious, linguistic, or cultural origin or background
I am reminded of a friend who is originally from Scotland being repeatedly congratulated on his (presumed faux) accent when portraying John Murray, Lord Dunmore; but cunning linguist, piper down, and SNL jokes aside, I will focus on clothing for this post, which is certainly not a complete compilation, as much as a place for me to share notes, images and ideas as I come across them, hopefully updated as new information and sources come to light.
Germanic & Dutch Clothing
NB: For now I am lumping "German" and "Dutch" together, as they are at times blurred in Anglo correspondence. Trends that initially stick out are conservative dress, "long sleeves open below," "Bavarian" or "Dutch" flap leather breeches, old outdated fashion square toed shoes, black stocks. The subtle differences may have been hard to discern, as Swede Peter Kalm described the Dutch in Albany as dressing "however like that of the English." Speaking of Sweden, Gustav III's 1778 Model Drawing for the Swedish National Man's Suit can be found here.
The Pennsylvania Gazette
February 2, 1744
RUN away, on the 8th Instant, from William Baker, in Chesnut Street Philadelphia, a Dutch Servant Woman, named Catherine Vernon, lusty and well set. fair Complexion, drest after the Dutch Fashion , dark Petticoat, short calico Jacket, dutch Cap, white Apron and Handkerchief, dutch Shoes with Nails in them; the said Servant can talk pretty good English, and has been in this Country about three Years. Whoever takes up the said Servant,and secures her so that her Master may have her again, shall have Forty Shillings Reward, and reasonable Charges paid by William Baker.
The Pennsylvania Gazette, Philadelphia, November 24. 1749.
Run away, last night, from William Williams, in Bucks county, New Britain township, a servant man, named James Hayes, about twenty years of age, of middle stature, sandy complexion: Had on a new cotton cap, large felt hat, commonly cock'd up, a tammy coat, full trimm'd before, with some of the buttons off above and below, with a brown camblet lining, a pale tammy jacket, lined with Bristol stuff, old leather breeches, with a flap before, or Dutch fashion , oznabrigs shirt, blue stockings, calfskin pumps, with block tin buckles; he has also with him, a cloth, serge, and flannel jacket, without sleeves; he stole from his master twenty dollars in silver, and a considerable quantity of paper money, the value not known. Whoever takes up said servant, and brings him to his master, or secures him in any goal, so that he may be had again, shall have Three Pounds current money of Pennsylvania, and reasonable charges,paid by WILLIAM WILLIAMS. N.B. He is an Irishman, but speaks pretty good English.
Pennsylvania Gazette, Aug. 29, 1754
August 29, 1754
RUN away on the third of May last, from Capt. Robert Harris, of Rocky river, in Anson
county, North Carolina, two Dutch servants, viz. a man and his wife; the man named Hermanus Haggen, about 30 years of age, of a low stature, with black hair: Had on, an old hat, blue coat, brown jacket, with brass buttons, and square toed shoes; and had a bag on his back, of a large bulk. The woman named Catherina, in a Dutch dress, with a damask petticoat, and a brown one, can speak some English, and have a little white dog with them.
Pefroen and the Sheep's Head by Cornelis Troost Mauritshuis, dated 1739
The Pennsylvania Gazette,February 7, 1776THREE POUNDS Reward.
RAN away from the subscriber, living in Worcester township, Philadelphia county, a German man servant named PHILIP PETER MILLER, he has a scar on the left side of his mouth, a fresh coloured visage, and dark brown bushy hair; had on when he went away, a light blue coat, after the German fashion , with long sleeves open below, a short blue jacket,white short woollen breeches, with a large patch between the legs, blue stockings, new shoes with odd buckles, a large German hat much worn, a black German stock made of horse hair, with a yellow stock buckle; he is about 5 feet 5 inches high, and cannot speak any English. Whoever takes up said servant, and secures him, so that his master may have him again, shall receive the above reward, paid by me.
Irish Dress
At this point I have not come across much in the way of distinctively Irish 18th century clothing in America (or for that matter unique Ulster Scots/Scots Irish), but I would refer anyone contemplating such an impression to view The Cries of Dublin & C: Drawn from the Life by Hugh Douglas Hamilton, 1760 for contemporary images. Mara Riley notes that "...around
the late 1500s to early 1600s, Scottish Highland clothing became more
distinct from Irish clothing of the same period. Whereas the
Irish began to wear clothing that more closely resembles that of the
common English peasantry..."
Scottish Dress
I highly recommend Mara Riley's page for a great rundown of Scottish costume.
One of the few instances of documentation of Highland dress in Colonial America involves the Highland settlers imported by the Trustees of Georgia in the 1730s (Colonial Records of the State of Georgia, Vol 29 p190):
Mr. Provost Lindesay thinks the properest Clothing for the Servants will be a short Coat and short Hose of Tartan and a Tartan Plaid the Coat and Hose of abt. 12d. a yard Sterling and the Plaid abt. 14d. The Trustees allow as far as 19s 3d Sterling for cloathing of each Servt. which makes the Cloathing and Bedding 1.5s together some of the Servts may want more than others for the present with the addition of Shirts, Bonnetts, & wt. they wear on their feet therefore as far as 19s/3 each for 40 or so many of them as shall be shipped the Trustees will pay yr. Draught for as well as the 20s each for engaging which yr. Accot. with the Trust will discharge by the engaging & cloathing of such Servts. at £1.19s.3d each.
I shewed Mr. Beans [McBeans] Letter to Mr. Oglethorpe & you are desired to buy for the Trust to be used in Georgia for the Highlanders there & now going 300 yards of Tartan at 12d. Sterling a yard for short Coats & short Hose & 1200 yds. of Tartan at 14d. Sterl. a yard for Plaids to be packed in a Bale & mark’d G&C Tartan of which Bale please to send the Dimensions of length, Breadth & Depth to settle the freight therof with the Owner here & let yr. Capt. sign 3 Bills of Lading for it one whereof please to inclose to Mr. Causton the other the Capt. will keep & the third please to send to the Trustees.
It should be noted that it is very likely these Highlanders quickly adopted the warm climate friendly linen clothes including trousers and breeches that seem to predominate early Georgia clothing accounts.
Colonial Records of the State of Georgia, Trustees’ Letter book 1732-38, 21 January 1737
“…Cloating vizt....Womens Gowns/ 8s each /12 Gowns for women…Stuff for women’s gowns/ 12d p Yard /83 yds. Of Stuff for Gowns...Ploding/ Do [same price as Stuff for gowns] /21 1/3 Yds. Of Ploding...Tartan/15d a yard/27 Yards Tartan...Scotch Broagues/2s a pair/21 Pairs of Scotch Broagues...Grey Cloth/2s 6d a yard/10 ½ Yds of grey Cloth….[other notations]Canvas Breeches/19d a pair/6 pair of Canvas Breeches..."
If one is portraying a Highland Scotsman after 1746, the Dress Act has to be considered:
Abolition and Proscription of the Highland Dress 19 George II, Chap. 39, Sec. 17, 1746:
That from and after the first day of August, One thousand, seven hundred and forty-six, no man or boy within that part of Britain called Scotland, other than such as shall be employed as Officers and Soldiers in His Majesty's Forces, shall, on any pretext whatever, wear or put on the clothes commonly called Highland clothes (that is to say) the Plaid, Philabeg, or little Kilt, Trowse, Shoulder-belts, or any part whatever of what peculiarly belongs to the Highland Garb; and that no tartan or party-coloured plaid of stuff shall be used for Great Coats or upper coats, and if any such person shall presume after the said first day of August, to wear or put on the aforesaid garment or any part of them, every such person so offending ... For the first offence,shall be liable to be imprisoned for 6 months, and on the second offence, to be transported to any of His Majesty's plantations beyond the seas, there to remain for the space of seven years.
Kilts seem to have been rarities here in North America, and the only instance I have found in runaway or deserter ads after 1746 is an Irishman!
The Pennsylvania Gazette, July 16, 1761
Fort Pitt, June 24, 1760.
DESERTED from this Garrison, SAMUEL PELLTON, Serjeant of Captain Paul Dehaus Company of the Pennsylvania Forces, about five Feet seven Inches high, a round Face, disfigured about his Nose and Mouth with the Small Pox, curled brown Hair, between 25 and 28 Years of Age: Had on and took with him his Regimental Clothes, red Calimancoe Breeches, and a Pair of Leather Breeches, and some other Clothes not remembered; he was born in the Jerseys, and had a Silver Watch, with a single Steel Chain. Also RICHARD WORREN, Corporal of Capt. Samuel Neilson Company of said Troops, about five Feet three or four Inches high, about 22 or 23 Years of Age, born in the North of Ireland, speaks good English, has a smooth Face, and is a great Gamester at Cards: Had on blue Regimental Clothes, and had a Highland Plad Kealt , which makes him remarkable when he wears it, he also had blue Cloth Breeches. They both have the [?] locks with them. Worren was in the Jersey Service last Campaign, and as they are both acquainted with that Part of the Country, and are sly smart Fellows, tis thought they are gone that Way, or to New York. As it is supposed they broke open and plundered a Store the Night they went away, whoever takes up said Deserters, and brings them to this Garrison, or secures them in any Goal in this Province, so as they may be brought to Justice, shall have Eight Pounds Reward for both, or Four Pounds for each, paid by the Officers to whom they belong.
That being said, "Tartan plaid" does show up in some post 1746 references- both in newspapers and store inventories (Montgomery's Textiles in America has a bright swatch illustrated from ca. 1750).
Fort Lewis Boyd's store inventory of the plantation and the store in Southwest Virginia dated September 25, 1766 contains "50 Yds. Tarten Plaid .......... 7/16/ 3"
For further info on plaids, I recommend http://www.scottishtartans.co.uk/
An exception or omission in the Dress Act's plaid kilt and upper garment prohibition seems to have been used to wear plaid waistcoats both in Scotland:
In rusty brown coats and waistcoats of plaid ;
With greasy cropt hair, and hats cut to the quick.
Tight white leathern breeches, and smart little stick ..."
and in America (although the date of the ad vs. the Dress act should be noted):
In addition to plaid waistcoats, (with ever present brown or blue coats or jackets), a Scot's bonnet (as worn by William St. Clair above) might be worth considering for this impression.
Some traditional Scottish weapons such as highland pistols and broad swords (such as Nicholas Ruxton Moore's Scottish broad sword in the link) were imported here but seem to have been somewhat rare compared to English goods.
Weighing the Lead Bars, Lead Processing at Leadhills, Scotland by David Allan, ca. 1789.
The man at far right appears to be wearing a "Maude"
Another Scottish affectation worth looking into is the (possibly more commonly Lowland) black and white checked mantle known as a "Maude", also discussed here.
David Allen Ca. 1785 National Galleries Scotland
